Tag: Grånasen

  • The Trial in Trondheim

    The Trial in Trondheim

    This coverage is made possible through the generous support of Marty and Kathy Hall and A Hall Mark of Excellence Award. To learn more about A Hall Mark of Excellence Award, or to learn how you can support FasterSkier’s coverage, please contact info@fasterskier.com.

    The men’s 20-kilometer Skiathlon at Granåsen never felt like an ordinary World Cup. From the moment the athletes stepped into the start pen, there was a tension in the air that didn’t match an early-December race. The stadium filled slowly; the fog sat low; the snow clung wetly to the klister underfoot. Yet the energy was unmistakable. It felt charged, anticipatory, almost uneasy.

    You could see it most clearly in the uniforms. Twelve Norwegians stood in the field of 91, and every one of them carried something heavier than usual race nerves. This wasn’t just about points. It wasn’t just about winning. It wasn’t even about bragging rights.

    Today, for Norway, was about the Olympics.

    Earlier that morning, Austria’s Mika Vermeulen summed it up bluntly when asked what he expected:

    “The Norwegians need to go fast to qualify for the Olympics.”

    It was the truth that everyone else was dancing around.

    On paper, this was a World Cup Skiathlon. On snow, it became something else entirely: an unofficial Olympic sorting ceremony, shaped by weeks of controversy, public criticism, and a federation under scrutiny.

    The start of the Men’s 20 k Skiathlon Trondheim (NOR). (Photo: Modica/NordicFocus)
    A Race Run Under a Shadow

    The tension surrounding this race didn’t begin in Trondheim. It started with a roster decision — or, in the eyes of many Norwegians, an omission. Emil Iversen, the veteran racer with a World Championship gold and a decade of elite podiums behind him, was left off the opening World Cup weekend in Ruka.

    The decision rippled across Norwegian media.

    The loudest voice belonged to Johannes Høsflot Klæbo.

    In a widely circulated VG article, Klæbo called the decision “dårlig håndverk”poor workmanship — and argued that if the goal was to send the fastest athletes, Iversen had earned his seat on the plane.

    “If you are good enough, you should get to go,” he told VG.

    Former national-team director Espen Bjervig fired back in Stavanger Aftenblad, criticizing both Klæbo and Iversen for speaking publicly about selection practices, arguing that it “creates noise and negativity.”

    Suddenly, what is typically a quiet, internal Norwegian debate had spilled into full public view. Selection wasn’t just a technical matter — it was a national storyline.

    And this Skiathlon, the only one before the Olympics, sat squarely in the center of that storm.

    Iivo Niskanen made his way to the front during the classic leg, but ultimately faded to 25th place on the day. (Photo: Modica/NordicFocus)
    The Classic Leg: A Tense, Measured Beginning

    When the field set off into the opening 10 k of classic skiing, the pace was high but controlled. Nobody wanted to take on the risk of an early break. The lead shifted lightly — Finland’s Iivo Niskanen testing, Norway’s Martin Loewstroem Nyenget responding — but the main pack stayed dense, the elastic never stretching too far.

    What stood out was not who led, but how closely the Norwegians watched one another. Every surge drew an immediate answer. Every gap in the pack was filled. There was a vigilance to their movements: unspoken, but unmistakable.

    Behind them, American Gus Schumacher skied with patience, always hovering near the front third, avoiding trouble. Ben Ogden played the elastic back-and-forth of the pack, feeling the surging, slowing, and reshuffling that characterizes Skiathlon racing.

    Nothing broke the race open. But everything pointed toward what was coming.

    Emil Iversen (#37, white hat), Zanden McMullen (#26 USA), Andrew Musgrave (GBR), Gus Schumacher (#18 USA) and Ben Ogden (#24 USA) navigate the pack during the classic leg. (Photo: Modica/NordicFocus)
    The Transition: When the Real Race Began

    At the stadium, skis were neatly arranged in assigned pens; in the grandstand, the crowd pressed forward on their seats, and the atmosphere shifted. The transition from classic to skate is always an inflection point in a Skiathlon. But today’s felt like the release of a held breath.

    As athletes stepped out of classic skis and into skate gear, the pace vaulted. The race’s character changed instantly — no longer steady, but sharp. No longer patient, but aggressive.

    Within seconds of leaving the exchange zone, the field stretched into a long, thin line—athletes who had looked comfortable in the first half suddenly fought to hold contact. The front swallowed the course in powerful V2 tempo, and what had been a race of restraint transformed into a race of revelation.

    From this point on, the Skiathlon resembled more of a Norwegian internal selection trial than a World Cup.

    With Johannes Hoesflot Klaebo (NOR) and Emil Iversen (NOR) at the front, Federico Pellegrino (ITA), Elia Barp (ITA), (l-r) and the rest of the lead pack try to match pace during the initial kilometers of the skate leg. (Photo: Modica/NordicFocus)
    The Skate Leg: Norway Sorts Itself Out

    With 10 kilometers to go, the lead group had thinned to about twenty athletes. By the next climb, it was closer to fifteen. And among those fifteen were eleven Norwegians — each racing not only the field but each other.

    Every shift in tempo felt deliberate.

    Every climb tested hierarchy.

    Every acceleration seemed to ask a quiet question:

    If this is for a trip to Milan–Cortina, who survives?

    Nyenget pushed the climbs with authority. Harald Østberg Amundsen pressed from the front like a man intent on staking a claim. Mattis Stenshagen floated with the leaders, unfazed by the fire around him. And somewhere in that pack, Emil Iversen — overlooked just one week earlier — had battled from the 37th starting position and was skiing with a visible urgency, a visible hunger.

    The pace was unrelenting. When Andrew Musgrave surged near 15 km, the field snapped back immediately. No one would be allowed to disrupt the internal Norwegian calculus.

    This was not a race that welcomed outsiders.

    Behind them, Schumacher held position just beyond the front group, skiing an intelligent and confident race on a day that didn’t cater to anyone not wearing red. Ogden fought through the volatility of the middle pack as the front repeatedly drove the pace into the threshold.

    Ben Ogden (USA) finding his skate legs in his first freestyle race of the season during the 20 k Skiathlon in Trondheim (NOR). (Photo: Modica/NordicFocus)
    American Reactions: Schumacher and Ogden Describe the Chaos

    Schumacher, who had circled this Skiathlon as a key Olympic-learning opportunity, said the day unfolded exactly as he expected:

    “I’m still kind of building into the season… but I’ve got some good skiathlon experience, and they don’t feel so crazy now. Treat it like a race, try to do my best, and definitely learn some stuff.”

    He found those lessons quickly — particularly in the transition to skate:

    “The pace was definitely hot… right out of the start of the skate, they went hard. A lot of those fitness guys are trying to put some distance to the faster people. It’s tough on this course. I felt ready for it, but struggled a little bit with the skis. They were digging too much in the hills.”

    And he could feel the intensity radiating from the Norwegians:

    “It absolutely was their Olympic trial. There’s definitely some intensity from their side. A lot of those guys are really nervous — and to be honest, they don’t seem to be having that much fun right now. It’s a tough fight for those four spots.”

    Ogden, who finished 35th, echoed the shock of the pace — especially coming off a demanding classic leg:

    “The pace today was probably the hardest thing for me. The classic was just so fastand I haven’t skated a lot this year. It came after the world’s hardest 10k classic.”

    He battled through the skate leg, trying to recalibrate on the fly:

    “I don’t think I skated very well. I didn’t push into the downhills very well, and I was just tired. You can go hard in the classic and still be competitive in the skate, but you have to be a little more tactical.”

    And, like Schumacher, he found himself needing to rewrite his goals mid-race:

    “Reevaluating your plan on the fly is always the hardest part. Once your plan falls apart, it’s easy to lose a little bit of grit mentally. Today, the goal just became to hang onto the back and try to beat a couple of them.”

    Maybe it isn’t in focus, but what is clear is Harald Oestberg Amundsen (NOR), Mattis Stenshagen (NOR), Johannes Hoesflot Klaebo (NOR), Emil Iversen (NOR), Jan Thomas Jenssen (NOR), Erik Valnes (NOR), Martin Loewstroem Nyenget (NOR), (l-r) all charging up the final climb of the 20 k Skiathlon in Tronheim, Norway. (Photo: Modica/NordicFocus)
    The Final Kilometers: A Reckoning on the Last Climb

    With three kilometers left, the stadium roar began to build. The final climb hovered ahead — long, grinding, decisive. The pack tightened—the Norwegian national and club team suits clustered near the front. And then the sorting began in earnest.

    Amundsen drove up the hill with power.

    Klæbo hovered, always exactly where he needed to be.

    And Iversen — the man left off the Ruka start list — refused to yield a single meter, emerging along the outside edge of the trail toward the front of the pack.

    The race crested the final hill, swept through the big left turn, and spilled into the descent where Skiathlon medals — and today, Olympic dreams — are so often decided.

    Klæbo did what only Klæbo does: timed the moment flawlessly, slid into open snow, and glided away with the control and confidence that has defined his career. Behind him, Amundsen locked up second.

    But all eyes were on third.

    There, straining every muscle, skiing with unmistakable desperation and defiance, was Emil Iversen.

    He crossed the line in third place — a podium on the only Skiathlon before the Olympics.

    For him, it was not just a race result.

    It was a reclamation.

    Johannes Hoesflot Klaebo (NOR) leads a Norwegian train down the home stretch. (Photo: Thibaut/NordicFocus)
    A Sweep That Spoke Volumes

    Norway swept the top eight.

    The best non-Norwegian — the always-impressive Mika Vermeulen — finished ninth.

    The top nine were separated by five seconds.

    The top fifteen by fifteen seconds.

    It was depth displayed as dominance, and dominance displayed as a message.

    For Klæbo, the picture is clear.

    For Amundsen, clearer still.

    For Stenshagen, it was a breakthrough.

    And for Iversen, it was a revival that carried the weight of the last two weeks on its shoulders.

    For the American men, Schumacher’s 21st showed consistency and smart racing in a field that spent much of the day executing internal warfare—Ogden’s 35th offered lessons in reading a volatile race and surviving wave after wave of pace changes.

    Harald Oestberg Amundsen (NOR), Johannes Hoesflot Klaebo (NOR), Emil Iversen (NOR), (l-r) take the Skiathlon podium in Trondheim (NOR). (Photo: Thibaut/NordicFocus)
    What This Means for the Olympic Picture

    Klæbo, with a smirk on his face, didn’t hesitate after the race:

    “I think I made the team now for sure.”

    He wasn’t wrong.

    Amundsen likely solidified his place as well.

    Stenshagen made himself hard to ignore.

    And Iversen forced the federation to confront the conversation it had hoped to avoid.

    Performance is supposed to matter.

    And Iversen delivered the clearest performance of anyone not named Klæbo.

    In the eyes of fans, teammates, and media, he didn’t just earn consideration — he demanded it.

    Emil Iversen may be the happiest person in Trondheim (NOR) today. (Photo: Thibaut/NordicFocus)
    A World Cup in Name Only

    As the sun faded over Granåsen and crews raked the sugary snow from the corners, it became apparent that what we had just witnessed was something far larger than a World Cup.

    This race was a referendum on form.

    A public test of internal politics.

    A stage where the world’s strongest skiing nation sorted itself out in real time.

    The stadium announcer called it the men’s 20 k Skiathlon.

    But everyone who watched, coached, raced, or cheered knew better.

    This was the reckoning.

    This was the day Norway began choosing its Olympic distance team.

    This was ‘The Trial in Trondheim!’

     

    Men’s 20 k Skiathlon RESULTS

     

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    Emil Iversen (NOR) was so happy to be back on the World Cup podium, but clearly his smiles were about something even bigger. (Photo: Thibaut/NordicFocus)
  • ‘I’m really looking forward to being inside’: An oral and visual history of Trondheim’s wettest weather in a century

    ‘I’m really looking forward to being inside’: An oral and visual history of Trondheim’s wettest weather in a century

    This article was made possible through the generous support of our voluntary subscribers.  If you would like to see more articles like this one, please support FasterSkier with a voluntary subscription.  

    Poncho-clad fans watch a race at the 2025 World Championships in Trondheim. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    TRONDHEIM, NORWAY — Chris Grover, the U.S. cross-country ski program’s director, was wearing his backup clothing against the heinous weather Wednesday at the World Championships here. His first set, he said, was still drying.

    The clothing, he said, was a casualty of a team van extrication from an event parking lot that, after a week of unrelenting rain, sleet and snow, has become a quagmire.

    “We were able to get ours out with six of us pushing,” Grover said, noting that other teams’ vehicles had to be rescued by a tractor. “But we paid the price: getting absolutely coated in mud.”

    U.S. Ski Team staff members Kristen Bourne, Erin Hammer, Erik Flora and Zuzana Rogers helped extricate a team van from a muddy parking lot. (Courtesy Chris Grover)

    The central Norwegian region of Trøndelag is known for its inclement weather; per an ongoing tourism campaign, while “the food is iconic,” the weather is “chronic.”

    But the past week in Trondheim has been special even by local standards, and not in a good way. The city, according to Norwegian media, has to reach back more than a century to find a wetter five-day stretch than the one it just experienced, with 4.5 inches of precipitation.

    Soggy journalists wait to interview athletes Wednesday at the finish line in Trondheim. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    The last time the weather was this bad, Norway and Sweden were both ruled by the same king, Oscar II. It would be 44 years until the birth of Kare Høsflot, grandfather of the star of the current World Championships, quadruple gold-winning Trondheim native Johannes Høsflot Klæbo.

    “There’s only one thing we can’t do anything about, and that’s the weather,” Trondheim’s mayor, Kent Ranum, said Wednesday. “I’ve tried. I even called both of the bishops. But so far, they are struggling a little bit.”

    Ranum spoke in an interview at Granåsen, Trondheim’s racing venue, that an aide helpfully arranged to take place in the shelter of a large bridge. 

    The mayor said he hoped the championships had experienced the worst of the weather by that point. But later that evening, organizers sent an urgent bulletin: Thursday’s competitions were being postponed a few hours due to wind that, in some areas, could reach hurricane force.

    The weather has been a high-profile topic of discussion in Scandinavian media, with a Swedish columnist proclaiming Trondheim the “place that the weather gods forgot” and saying it should never host a championships again.

    But Granåsen’s crowds have shown exceptional persistence, turning out in hordes wearing wool, rain slickers, ponchos, rubber hats and heavy boots to ward off the damp and chill.

    Fans packed the grandstand in Trondheim in spite of relentless precipitation. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    FasterSkier spent part of Wednesday’s team sprint race investigating how Granåsen’s denizens have, and haven’t, been staying dry for the past week. Here’s what we found.

    JC Schoonmaker and Gus Schumacher, U.S. team sprint competitors

    What do you guys start the day wearing?

    Gus: Pretty, like, normal today. Thankfully, at the last second I put a second race suit, second pants, second everything in there. Normally, I don’t bring extra pants or a race suit — well, these days, I guess I do. 

    JC: Same, normal stuff — I borrowed (teammate) Zak Ketterson’s rain pants today, which was pretty nice. He was just finishing training when I was getting up here, which was good, because I didn’t bring two pairs of pants. But today was also the first time I’ve ever brought a second race suit to a race, honestly.

    Gus Schumacher warms up for Wednesday’s team sprint. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    How would you describe what’s been coming out of the sky for the past 72 hours?

    Gus: I think it’s crazy how it can be, like, snowflakes but also rain at the same time. It’s not like every flake is a mix of snow and rain. It’s like, there is snow and there’s rain in the same skies at the same time.

    In the race, it’s pretty normal clothing?

    Gus: We’re out there for 15 or 20 minutes, and you don’t notice the rain.

    So, we’re the ones that get screwed waiting around for interviews here.

    Gus: For sure. We were in the athlete cabin, just enjoying the cozy cabin-, sipping-hot-cocoa vibes while everyone was out here still — I was like, ‘God, people will get hypothermia today.’

    A Norwegian staffer shelters team sprint competitor Kristine Stavås Skistad during an interview Wednesday. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    JC: It’s, like, not bad at all for us. I just feel more bad for you guys, the techs and all the fans.

    Gus: I mean, it’s a little bit bad. In the middle of the day, I was like, ‘I’m really looking forward to being inside.’

    JC: But for racing, it’s just, like, fun.

    And if you had to describe your level of moisture right now?

    JC: Uhhh. Medium wet.

    Gus: 40%.

    Stadium reporter Andreas Ryggvik Karlsen

    You look pretty prepared.

    I’m standing outside all day, and I’ve been pretty cold the last couple of days. So today, I changed it up a bit.

    So, what do you have? Start at the bottom.

    Right now, I have my Fubukis. I’ve got my Swix pants. And I’ve got a poncho. I’ve also got a down jacket with some wool underneath, and then a Super — it’s like a Swix, technical kind of material. And this is my rain hat. Nothing breaks through.

    Stadium reporter Andreas Ryggvik Karlsen (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    How are you feeling right now?

    I’m wet. Even though I came fully prepared, I’m wet. But I’m excited — it’s a world championship in my home city, so, I love it.

    This is your home city, but you’re still wet?

    Yeah. But you can’t prepare for the weather that we have had just now. Everything breaks through. You have no possibilities of keeping realllllly dry.

    Fabian Mauz, Australian team ski technician

    The question for everyone today: How are you handling this?

    When I realized this weather forecast last week, I bought a couple of shoe dryers, which heats up our cabin and gets our gear dry within minutes. So, be prepared.

    What are you wearing right now?

    Well, the third pair of cross-country clothes of the day. That’s it.

    How dry are you?

    Now? Feet are totally wet. Otherwise, it seems to be moist, not that bad. But it will come, for sure.

    Oh, I like these gloves, too.

    This is the best thing you can have under these conditions. It’s not Swix gloves. It’s working gloves from Bauhaus. German imports. If you have wet gloves, it’s just disgusting. This is rubber stuff, so you can go driving with it — probably diver’s gloves would be perfect today.

    Fabian Mauz (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    Devon Kershaw, Eurosport commentator and FasterSkier podcast host

    What are you wearing, dude? How are you staying dry?

    I’m not staying dry. But I’m wearing, like, what, an ankle-length rain jacket, with three layers under that? And this is my third pair of mitts, which is soaked all the way through. So, I’m not moving to Trondheim, let’s put it that way.

    Devon Kershaw (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    And what are those boots?

    Dude, those are Sorel’s. Trump probably wants to tariff the shit out of them. But, like, Canadian-made, baby.

    Jenny Hansen and Jesper Lyngner, fans

    Tell me about how you’re handling the weather. 

    Jenny: I have, I think, four layers. A lot of wool. It’s good.

    Those pants do not look very waterproof, though.

    Jenny: I know. I left my pants at home in Oslo.

    What were you thinking?

    Jenny: I don’t know. I had a short time packing.

    Are you really regretting that now?

    Jenny: Yeah.

    Are these scarfs or sweaters?

    Jesper: It’s a sweater. Really clutch.

    Jenny Hansen and Jesper Lyngner (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    How dry are you right now?

    Jesper: From one to 10, maybe seven? Pretty dry.

    How would you describe the situation with the weather?

    Jesper: I think it’s the worst that it could have been, actually. It would have been better if it had been -10, if it was dry. Now it’s 2 degrees and really wet.

    Jenny: It makes you cold when the wind is blowing. But we are Norwegians, so we’re pretty used to it.

    Linnea Myklebust, security guard

    Is your stuff waterproof?

    I think so. And then under my shoes, I have this.

    Security guard Linnea; her shoes (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    Oh! Is it little plastic bags?

    Yeah.

    All the way under your feet?

    Yeah, it’s good. I don’t get wet.

    Yngve, stadium police officer

    How are you doing?

    Everything is going okay. We have the Gore-tex. We have good shoes and good gloves. So, the weather is, yes, as it is.

    Are you wet?

    No.

    Police officer Yngve (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    Not at all?

    A little bit, on my head. But I’m using my hood.

    Kevin Bolger and Alayna Sonnesyn, American athletes watching Wednesday’s race

    Tell me what you guys are rocking today.

    Kevin: I’ve got the Fubuki boots. With the U.S. Ski Team puffy, and a poncho on top. I think it’ll play.

    How confident are you guys that this is going to keep you dry for 90 minutes?

    Alayna: I think I’m lacking the boots. I’m in running shoes.

    Alayna Sonnesyn’s shoes; Kevin Bolger (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    That was a bad choice.

    Alayna: This is going to be my limiting factor today.

    Is it actually going to limit you, or are you just going to have wet feet?

    Alayna: TBD.

    Kevin: I think our saving grace, also, is: We love our men, very dearly. But we’re here to cheer on the women. And then we’re here to get out of here.

    I won’t tell Gus and JC.

  • Campfires, screaming crowds and flaming moonshine: A day of worship in Norway, where skiing is religion

    Campfires, screaming crowds and flaming moonshine: A day of worship in Norway, where skiing is religion

    This article was made possible through the generous support of our voluntary subscribers.  If you would like to see more articles like this one, please support FasterSkier with a voluntary subscription.  

    Fans and support staff watch athletes compete in the World Championship 20-kilometer skiathlon in Trondheim, Norway on Saturday, March 1, 2025. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    TRONDHEIM, NORWAY — A few minutes before 11 a.m. on the side of a ski trail Saturday, a Norwegian plumber named Sven has handed me a cup of karsk: hot coffee mixed with moonshine.

    Sven touches a lit match to the surface. It is now on fire.

    “Clear, blue flame: That’s good homemade,” he tells me.

    One of his friends blows it out for me, and I bring the eye-watering mixture to my lips.

    Welcome to Trondheim, where, after 14 years of World Championships and Olympic Games outside the homeland of cross-country skiing, the sport has finally returned and, for the next week, will be living its best life.

    In a country where people are said to be born with skis on their feet, tens of thousands of fans have come to rejoice in Norway’s dominance at Trondheim’s Granåsen venue — packing into grandstands along the homestretch, with hordes more trekking up and into the woods along the trails to camp, carouse and cheer.

    Norwegian fans cheer athletes competing in Saturday’s world championships race. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    For years, experts and pundits have fretted about the future of cross-country skiing — the threats posed by climate change, by Scandinavian dominance that crowds out interest and television audiences in other nations.

    At this World Championships, those fears have been cast aside, replaced by joy, wonder and a celebration of the Norwegian tradition of heading out into the woods. Mika Vermeulen, an Austrian athlete who lives and trains a few hours south of Trondheim in Lillehammer, summed it up.

    “Cross-country skiing is religion in Norway,” he said after Saturday’s race. “And today, Granåsen was the Vatican.”

    Crowds cheer for the men’s skiathlon field at the student area along the classic course. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    The hardworking stateside FasterSkier crew has done the heavy lifting of recapping the details of Saturday’s race; as the correspondent on site, it was my job to gather the material out of view of the television cameras.

    So, join me for a tour of the day-long thrill ride I took along the World Championship ski trails and in the city of Trondheim before, during and after the competition.

    The tour starts with me wandering down the road from Granåsen back toward town.

    I’d seen campsites next to the race course while out on a ski tour the day before. But I didn’t have access to the course on Saturday, security was tight, and I didn’t know how to get back to the same spot on foot. No one at the media center could tell me, either.

    On Google Maps, it looked like there were some trails splitting off from the road. So, I started walking, then followed a family onto an icy path up through the woods that eventually connected us to an ungroomed ski trail.

    A Norwegian family climbs along Trondheim’s ski trails to reach a viewing area before Saturday’s skiathlon World Championships event. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    The smell of kerosene was in the air: We were headed in the right direction.

    When we hit the race course, I walked up to the first tent, which had a wood stove inside. It was four friends from childhood and military service who had trekked in with a sled the night before — carrying on a long Norwegian tradition of camping out before a big ski race.

    “We are from the region, so it’s quite natural for us to come here,” one of Sven’s friends told me. “It’s something about the Norwegian culture — it’s hard to put words on, but I guess it’s the excitement with the race, and it’s the spirit close to the tracks.”

    “Nature and campfire and some moonshine and have fun,” added the plumber, Sven Saksvik.

    After my aforementioned sip of flaming cocktail, I kept walking along the trail, encountering increasing numbers of campers and fans as I went.

    Three middle-aged men with tattoos and beards sat on reindeer and sheep skins, listening to heavy metal out of a portable speaker. Another group handed me a slice of reindeer salami from a wooden cutting board. A little ways back in the trees, a family cooked bacon over hot coals.

    The father, Jon Hammernes, wore his grandfather’s wool pants, a pair of sealskin boots and a crisp Norwegian sweater that matched his wife’s. He said he’d pitched his family’s tent three weeks ago, to claim their spot.

    John Hammernes, left, and his family watched Saturday’s World Championship skiathlon from the side of the trail after setting up their tent three weeks beforehand. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    “We, of course, like ski sport. But also the feeling of being with thousands of people,” Hammernes said. He said he’d brought 30 bags of firewood and that authorities had moved a standard spring vacation to give his kids the next week off from school.

    The woods weren’t packed by then, but it was only 11:30 a.m. — two and a half hours before the start of the race.

    At the far point on the course, I found spectators still streaming in, hoofing up a dirt road that led a mile back down to where city buses dropped them off. They carried skins and foam pads to sit on, while students toted huge portable speakers; alcohol and sausages were in abundance.

    Alexandra Ennebo, a student at the Norwegian University of Science and Technology in Trondheim, said she carried a large speaker roughly a mile, “like, right uphill,” to the skiathlon course, where she planned to watch and celebrate with a group of friends. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    After interviewing an electrician who’d carried a television screen up to the track that he’d then spliced into the power supply from the Granåsen trails’ lighting system — “do not try this at home,” he told me — I jogged back down to the media center. I needed lunch, and more camera equipment to capture what seemed almost certain to be a Big Scene during the race.

    I sprinted back up to the camping area just as the men began their 20-kilometer skiathlon.

    By that point, huge crowds of students lined the race trail, sending up enormous roars as the pack skied past. I spent a few minutes shooting photos, watched a group of young people gulp Jägermeister from shot glasses glued to a ski, then descended a precipitous slope of mud and snow back to the road.

    The second half of Saturday’s race ran on a separate course, and I wanted to see the finish. So did dozens of other fans, who joined me in jogging back toward Granåsen stadium.

    I made it back to the photographer’s stand at the finish line in time to see a group of leaders that had winnowed itself down to about a dozen from nearly 100 starters. Among them were all five Norwegian competitors, including superstar Johannes Høsflot Klæbo, a Trondheim native who’s become the city’s golden boy.

    Each time the leaders lapped through the stadium, the sold-out crowd of 29,000 went crazy, waving a sea of Norwegian flags. Klæbo delighted them by winning with enough of a gap to celebrate before crossing the finish line, and three of his teammates followed before the first non-Norwegian finisher.

    The men’s skiathlon field passes a large group of Norwegian spectators far from the stadium. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    One of the first people I ran into on my way from the photo stand to the athlete area was Klæbo’s father, Haakon, who I met two years ago when Johannes held a training camp in Utah.

    “This is crazy,” Haakon said. “It’s like being in a Formula One race in Monaco!” I asked if he’d been up to the woods. He hadn’t, so I told him about my flaming moonshine experience.

    “That is why you’re a little happy now,” he said.

    In the athlete zone, racers came through one by one, each with their own take on the electric atmosphere.

    Some said they couldn’t hear their own breathing; Gus Schumacher, the top American finisher in ninth, said firecrackers were going off above him. Christopher Kalev, an Estonian, described a haze along the trail from the campfires.

    A group of Norwegian fans sits in front of a campfire during Saturday’s skiathlon. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    “You feel like you’re losing three weeks out of your life from the air quality. But it’s totally worth it,” Kalev said. “This is how it should be always — there’s so many spectators, people are cheering your name, looking you up from the start list.”

    He added: “It’s always going to be miserable in a 20-kilometer race. There’s the moments you feel like you really want to give in, and if you were alone in the woods you probably would. But you can’t be slow when there are thousands of people cheering right there.”

    Martin Løwstrøm Nyenget, the Norwegian who finished second, said: “It’s the closest thing to being a rock star for a day.”

    Schumacher and Italian Federico Pellegrino had identical take-home messages: The huge crowds made the athletes feel “valued.”

    Organizers said a sold-out crowd of 29,000 packed Granåsen’s stadium Saturday, with an estimated 20,000 more along the trails. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    “I think skiers at home oftentimes count themselves out as, ‘We are a niche sport.’ I think people maybe talk down on it a little too much,” Schumacher said. “It’s cool to see this and have validation. It takes it being a huge event in Norway. But people care about it.”

    The head organizer of the championships, Åge Skinstad, put it this way in comments to Norwegian national broadcaster NRK: “Skiing is not completely dead.”

    After the finish line interviews, race organizers held a news conference with the three podium finishers.

    Sitting in the audience was a trio of 16-year-old junior cross-country ski racers who had the unique privilege of being forerunners for Saturday’s event — meaning they skied on the trail just ahead of the competitors to test it out.

    “We skied into a huge wall of noise,” one of them, Sivert Mørch, told me. “I haven’t experienced that before, and I don’t think I will again.”

    Fans lined the trail at a student area outside of Granåsen’s stadium. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    Once they were done skiing, the forerunners hung around in the stadium, watching the final sprint finish and then posing for photos with third-placed Harald Østberg Amundsen — turbocharging their dreams of some day turning professional.

    Amundsen described his experience much like Mørch did: “On the first lap in classic, when there were fireworks up in the woods, I was quite shocked. And I knew that this is going to be something I will remember all my life.”

    “I think we need some time to let it sink in,” Amundsen added. “But it was quite amazing.”

    From the news conference, I climbed into a coach bus with other media and volunteers, following the podium finishers back down to Trondheim for an evening awards ceremony. The huge city square was packed with thousands more flag-waving fans. Just as the event began, torrential rains and gusty winds blew in; nobody budged.

    Fans celebrated a Norwegian podium sweep at a Saturday evening ceremony in Trondheim’s city square spite of a downpour, visible in the beam of light in the center of the photo. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    Onstage, Norway’s Queen Sonja met Klæbo, Nyenget and Amundsen to hand out their medals. Then, Klæbo stepped up to a golden microphone for a victory speech — all in his native tongue except for his final words.

    “For all the international people,” he said in English, “this is how we do it in Trondheim.”

    Johannes Høsflot Klæbo speaks into the golden microphone Saturday night. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)
  • A ‘huge party’ of a World Championships is ready to kick off in Norway

    A ‘huge party’ of a World Championships is ready to kick off in Norway

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    Athletes ski on the sprint course at Trondheim’s Grånasen venue Wednesday. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    TRONDHEIM — It’s back.

    It’s been 14 years since Norway hosted a cross-country skiing World Championships, with the 2011 event going off along Oslo trails mobbed with Scandinavian fans.

    The championships return to the skiing-mad nation again Thursday, with the first of six medal races, a freestyle sprint, set for the Granåsen venue in the central Norwegian city of Trondheim.

    Organizers say they’ve already sold more than 200,000 tickets, with avid fans scouting out spots alongside the trails where they plan to pitch tents and camp to watch races over multiple days.

    Trondheim’s top municipal official follows the sport closely enough that he’s rooting not just for the home team — but for a particular American star, too.

    “I will be a smiling mayor if Jessie Diggins does well,” Kent Ranum, Trondheim’s mayor, said in an interview Wednesday.

    If Oslo is Norway’s urban center of cross-country skiing, Trondheim, and the surrounding ​​Trøndelag region, is the sport’s heart.

    Johannes Høsflot Klæbo, the Norwegian superstar, is from here, and “we have raised most of the medalists throughout all the years,” said Ranum — including 15-time Olympic medalist Marit Bjørgen, who now coaches the Norwegian women’s team.

    Norwegian superstar Johannes Høsflot Klæbo skis with coach Arild Monsen in Trondheim on Wednesday. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    Ranum also describes Trondheim’s residents as “world-class hosts,” and concerts and other events accompanying the championships are planned at venues across the city.

    “It’s looking like it’s going to be a huge party for the next 10 days,” said Tony Cyr, a Canadian athlete, after his workout at Grånasen on Wednesday. “You walk around town and everything’s about skiing.”

    Ben Ogden, a young American star, added: “The entire town, you can feel, is prepping for something.”

    American skier Ben Ogden poses for a photo after testing out the World Championships sprint course Wednesday. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    At Grånasen, athletes were greeted Wednesday by an enormous grandstand looming multiple stories above the stadium. The stands were empty — but they’re expected to fill up for Thursday morning’s sprint.

    Dozens of nations trained at the venue Wednesday, after finishing tuneup camps at resorts and cabins scattered across Europe. The atmosphere was semi-organized chaos, as athletes, coaches and ski technicians tested out the tight 1.4-kilometer sprint course.

    “This level of chaos — this just screams championship,” said Ogden. “And not only championship, but a championship that everybody is getting fired up for.”

    Athletes, coaches and technicians crowd the sprint course Wednesday. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    Ogden — who, in spite of recent World Cup podium finishes, is still not a household name across America — got his own dose of Norwegian ski fervor when he went to a Trondheim camera shop this week to buy some equipment for his video blog.

    The man at the counter, Ogden said, asked what the gear was for.

    “I was like, ‘Oh, I have a YouTube channel,’” Ogden said. “He’s like, ‘Oh, are you Ben?’ I was like, ‘This is so cool.’”

    Mayhem could be on tap in Thursday’s sprint

    Thursday’s opening medal event takes place on a compact course that’s nearly all viewable from the Grånasen stadium — essentially, a long climb followed by a long downhill into a tight, bending curve, back up the hill, then back down to the stadium, with a sweeping, 180-degree righthand turn before the finishing stretch.

    That final corner could end up being a defining feature, as it claimed numerous athletes in slips, skids and falls during Wednesday’s training session. American sprinters Ogden, J.C. Schoonmaker and Kevin Bolger tangled in a three-way crash that broke one of Bolger’s skis.

    “We were doing a group speed and getting a little aggro,” Ogden said afterward. “But it’s a good way to learn what not to do for tomorrow.”

    Trondheim’s above-freezing temperatures — forecast to continue for at least the next few days, with potential for rain and snow mixed in — also contributed, producing conditions that were simultaneously sloppy and slick.

    U.S. superstar Jessie Diggins skis on the Trondheim sprint course Wednesday with her coach Jason Cork. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    Ogden said that the final corner will be a spot to watch.

    But he also said the course’s climbs are “really long,” giving at least a chance for some athletes to break away.

    “I don’t know what you’ll see tomorrow. I think some of it will depend on how firm it is,” he said. “If it’s slushy, like today, it’ll be so costly to try to make a gap on the hill that I don’t think you’ll see a lot of people doing it.”

    Another U.S. athlete, Rosie Brennan, described the sprint’s two corners as “very spicy.” But, like Ogden, she also said “there’s a lot to the course.”

    Klæbo, the local, has won the last three World Championships sprints — in 2019, 2021, and 2023 — and has not lost a sprint on the World Cup in more than a year.

    He’s the favorite in Thursday’s men’s race, especially since he’s known for his skill in navigating sharp turns like the final one on the Grånasen course.

    Ogden said it’s still too early to name that curve “Klaebo corner.” But, he added, “it has all the marks of being dubbed as such before too long.”

    “He knows how to navigate tricky situations better than anyone I’ve ever watched,” Ogden said. “I’m sure he’ll put on a master class there tomorrow.”

    The women’s race is more of a toss-up.

    Norway has Kristine Stavås Skistad, a rising star who won last year’s test sprint race at Grånasen.

    But Skistad missed competitions earlier this year while recovering from a surgery, and two weeks ago, she finished behind Swedish star Jonna Sundling in the last World Cup sprint race before the championships.

    The U.S. women discuss tactics after testing the World Championships sprint course Wednesday. (Nathaniel Herz/FasterSkier)

    A duel between Skistad and Sundling would certainly give Scandinavians something to feud about over the next week of ski racing.

    The ever-present rivalry between Sweden and Norway has heated up with the approach of the championships — including with the release of a diss track by Swedish rapper Markoolio, who mocked Norwegian cross-country superstar Petter Northug’s past history of cocaine abuse.

    Ranum, the Trondheim mayor, summed up the mostly-generous spirit of the Norwegian hosts when he said he wouldn’t mind seeing Diggins knock local athletes off the podium.

    “It would be great,” he said. “Anybody but the Swedes.”

    U.S. and Canadian starters, men’s sprint: USA, Ben Ogden, Gus Schumacher, Jack Young, J.C. Schoonmaker; Canada, Xavier McKeever, Sasha Masson, Graham Ritchie, Pierre Grall-Johnson

    U.S. and Canadian starters, women’s sprint: USA, Julia Kern, Jessie Diggins, Rosie Brennan, Kate Oldham; Canada, Katie Weaver, Alison Mackie, Sonjaa Schmidt, Liliane Gagnon